050901 Intake

Overview - A small, unknown, bolted quarry at the same distance as the Black Rocks (i.e. a slightly-talented stone's throwers chuck away)? Had to be tried. The place feels quite eerie, like some WWII battlefield a decade on. Having done a few routes quite quickly, we decided that it just wouldn't be doing the wall justice if we left anything unclimbed... So between us, we did all of Take Away Wall

Who Flung Dung (6b+):

Led - Had a go at Blue Moon Night first, but decided, after getting precisely nowhere, that an easier start to the day was in order - A good introduction to the crimpy-er harder moves in the quarry. It's all over once you've clipped the second bolt, but there are a few good technical moves up to it! Enjoy the quiet atmosphere from then on...

Chop Suicide (1* 6b):

Led - Can't really remember much about this one, as it seemed juggy and easy without much technique, up until the penultimate move. I stood there for a good ten minutes trying to work out just which of the small feet to use (Chris just reached past them, but probably still with the same difficulty). Nice move once you commit to it, but definitely a one-move-wonder route.

Blue Moon Night (6c+):

Led - Same as Who Flung Dung, really, just a decent notch harder to get to the second bolt. I spent most of my time belaying Chris looking at the start to this, and would believe that most people start directly under the bolt, whereas the side-pull slightly left looked too good to miss. I would say the same grade applies either way - and the resulting moves are terrific. Clipping the second bolt was a little nervy, but once clipped, one further move takes you to the salvation of the ladder of jugs all the way to the top (assuming you're not too pumped!)

Crispy Duck (6b):

Led - Yeh, it's still a bit sandy at the bottom, but just keep going, and it works out all right. A few nice moves, with having to think a little harder at the top solely due to tiredness, but nothing to shout home about...

Prawn Crackers (1* 6c):

Led (one rest) - After a week on grit, and a good few routes for day already, my fingertips just gave up on this one. Reasonable moves, hard-ish start, but quite sustained - the move out above the cave is quite nice, but the following couple require having good faith in the smaller, sharper crimps...

2*??? (5)

Led - Two 5s from the Gibson site, mostly done to finish off the bolt lines we could see on the wall. Neither were particularly easy or pleasant, but that could just be the end-of-the-day effect!